Last day

There are things to which a photo or a bunch of words cannot do justice.

The colour of the water at Nafsika's cave and down the cliffs of the monastery in Palaiokastritsa is one of them.

Like the sound of the cicadas mixed to the sound of the waves, while lying on a pebbles beach in Kassiopi's bay. 

Or the freshness of an unexpected cave, found following the footsteps of a bunch of Germans hiking up mount Pantokrator.

For other things, a couple of photo shots may help.

Sadly, tomorrow at this time I will be a caught by another kind of blue, in the livery of a Ryanair aircraft heading north.

Going north

Staring at cliffs is one of my addictions.

I lost my breath long time ago at the Irish Cliffs of Moher and was knocked out again more recently down under at the 12 Apostles.

Driving in the north-west of Corfù, across cypress and olive tree forests, Cape Drastis added some more jabs.

Small Ionians

The worst kept secret in Corfù is that ferries take you for a day trip to Paxos and Antipaxos, small neighbours in the turquoisest part of the Ionian sea.

So small that only a meagre 200.000 olive trees exist on Paxos, while Corfù can afford around 4 million.

And so secret that ferries are usually fully booked, including the organised tours with hundreds of people (and pork souvlaki) roasting onboard.

Corfiots are very proud of the little ones and can talk endlessly about the beauty of their waters. 

I can now confirm.

Corfù

A new summer, a new corner of Greece. 

Here in Corfù temperature is just right, the garlic in the tzatziki is just a little above what literature may prescribe, the blue is just as overwhelming as it needs to be.

Afroditis, selling jewellery in Kerkyra centre, told us about 'meandros', the spiral and Greek symbol of life without an end. Who wants to live forever? The Corfiots, she said.

Guess she may have a point.

Stamatis, restaurant owner up the hill in Acharavi, 35 years in the business, seemed to be of the same mind. Wondering if that has anything to do with the fact that he seemed to keep forgetting what we were talking about.

Meandros or not, one of the beauties of Kerkyra is meandering through the narrow venetian streets. Later on, a wrong turn may send you meandering through narrow mountain roads, tiny villages and surprise viewpoints.

Plotting

Back from Loire, time to plot all the stops on a map. From Blois to Angers, via Tours and Saumur, touching Chartres on the way back.

For a total of 12 Castles, 6 towns, 1 troglodyte farm, 1 Cathedral, 1500 km, 4 wine cellars, 15 bottles back home.

Top 3 Castles: Chambord, Chenonceau, Blois.
Outstanding breathtaking non-Castle: Chartres cathedral

Top 3 activities: spending the night in a water mill, eating fouées a la troglodyte, sundowner on the Loire (kayaking could have been an option too).

Top 3 people: big-nose King Francis I, our Lady of the Mill, le vigneron de la Giraudiere.
Special mention to the Lady of the Poires Tapées de Rivarenne, explaining her ethics of beating the pears.

Castles part III: Chenonceau

 The castle of women. The castle of luscious gardens. The castle of love, pleasure, lust and power. 

Women lived here who were loved by some king - or were otherwise married to them. Women who fought for the privilege of living here (as opposed to being confined to some other beautiful castle down the river, of course).


Women who ruled the country from a green cabinet or retreated to mourn a dead husband in peace in a dark room - in peace, sure, but surrounded by a court of kind gentlemen.

It has been a hot summer day and then a sweet summer night, of the kind all those women would have certainly known how to enjoy.

Leonardo

King Francis I did not look extremely handsome and had quite a big nose. But that is not so important.

Besides Chambord, he had another beautiful castle overlooking Amboise (among other places where he would move with his thousands servants and assemblable furniture) and a manor a few hundred metres away, when he invited Leonardo to join him.

The Genius accepted and came by - bringing Mona Lisa along and making a French lady of her forever.

Leonardo did not regret it as he even requested to be buried there. The Amboisiens certainly did not regret it either, as nowadays they seem to capitalise on Leonardo's last restplace more than birthplace Vinci.

I suspect that also a Genius enjoys living in a nice manor, surrounded by a big park, developing war machines and other toys.

Castles part II: Chambord and Cheverny

Once upon a time lived Francis I, a very determined young man. At age 25 he knew that he wanted Milan and that he wanted also a huge and beautiful castle with an extended forest around so that he could go hunting. There was a perfect spot in Chambord.

The guy got what he wanted, the castle is magnificent. But Francis I loved travelling (and wars) more than he loved staying in the beautiful castle. Therefore he got himself a few thousands servants and a few sets of dismountable furniture (Ikea bed, chests and wardrobes of the time). And so, he could keep going around carrying everything along and randomly stopping at the immense castle when he felt like it. 

In fact he moved also within he castle. Today did he not feel comfortable in one wing? Just dismount the bed and move everything to the other side. 

I would not find it unlikely that he finally quit the place because of getting tired of looking for the bathroom among more than 400 rooms.

Several centuries later, Hergé and Tintin would find it much easier getting around in neighbouring Cheverny, masterpiece of classical symmetry and harmonic beauty.

Castles part I: Blois

The Loire at last, shining at sunset.

In the city of Renaissance intrigues and bloodshed, stands a majestic castle, which is in fact 4 different castles in one. Cannot stop staring at this marble staircase.

The summer night is warm and calm in the court of the Castle. Even better after the (slightly overdone) "son et lumiere" show is over. 

The sky is dark and clear. The stars (and the satellites and the international space station) quietly look down on us. Cheesy yeah, but it is St.Lawrence, so I'm expecting some falling stars anytime. In fact I think I have seen one - although it may have been just a bat hit by the spotlight, who knows.

And then spending the night in a former watermill in the middle of the fields.