L'ombelico del (nuovo) mondo

Welcome to the archeological capital of the Americas, the city of gold, the navel of the new world, the capital of the Incan empire, spanning from Colombia to Argentina - before being conquered (invaded?) and raided by Pizarro and his Conquistadores.

Also the base to explore Inca lands and star attraction Macchu Picchu. But that will come later.

Welcoming and pleasant despite its 3400 metres, so rich in history, culture and sights that can be overwhelming.

With churches, basilicas, museums and even pretty good restaurants, it is going to keep us busy for some time.

While a majestic sun is shining onto the imposing Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral and the Church of the Jesuits are competing for attention. Not a novelty: the latter was built in an attempt to rival its neighbour in splendor - until the offended bishop complained to the Vatican and obtained to downsize the Jesuit plans to only one nave.

Both ended up as masterpieces of baroque, rococo and of mixing catholic art and local traditions: Virgin Mary with a dress in a shape of the sacred mountain, bare-chest ladies symbols of fertility adorning the bishop's benches, and our favourite: the last supper featuring roasted Guinea pig on the menu.

The Qurikancha or Convent of Santo Domingo is another must see. Originally the Inca most important temple, the House of the Sun, decorated with gold, silver, thrones and precious stones, it later became a Dominican Convent, built upon and around the Inca structure.

The Incas knew how to make anti-seismic buildings which are in a good part still standing, with trapeze stones, twelve angled stones and lego-style of construction. The colonial structure fared much less well and was much more damaged by the earthquakes. Which led to the local distinction between Inca and Incapaces.

To the Colca

3400 metres down, the 4th deepest canyon of the world. For a while Peruvians thought it was the deepest of them all, disappointed to discover the real depth courtesy of 4 polish guys going for a trek a few years ago. 

Perfect land to produce protein rich quinoa, now so popular in the First world that it has become very expensive for locals and destined to export. Left to los peruanos only second or third quality

Llamas and alpacas live happily together in big herds above 4000 metres, condors spend their mornings crossing a canyon left and right. Instead, humans from elsewhere struggle to cope with the reduced oxygen and the increased cuteness (picture two big grownup Italian boys going crazy about the cuteness of 2 years old Aracel, 3 years old Sofia and baby alpaca Pedro).

Pictures require propina of 1 sol. Yes it is a touristy thing and no I did not resist either. After all, I woke up at 2 am to be here today, the higher moral ground is for another day. 

Befriended also a brave young chica, accountant from Talara (but future singer), born and raised on the seaside few km from the equator. First time on her own, she took a bus ride of 35 hours to get to the heights of arequipa and colca - and falling prey of sorochi. 

Ah, condors and colibris live here too

A relaxed Peruvian start

We came here for treks but Peruvian stories begin with an overnight flight from New York, a nap in a cute b&b in Lima before a 3 hours bus tour southwards, direction Paracas, for the first ceviche and Pisco sour of the trip, by the beach.

An early morning boat visit around the Ballestas islands is the occasion to accept the "guano" challenge: avoid being hit on your head by the bombs released by the thousands of birds living there in peaceful cohabitation with the sea lions.

Next is the oasis of Huacachina, to relax, enjoy the desert, get into a buggie to climb those mega dunes and descend with a sandboard.

The best in Huacachina - we are told - is the aperitif at sundown and backpackers parties.

But by that time we are already on a bus to the next destination.

Next destination being Nasca, home to the pre-inca (or alien, who knows?) lines in the desert, some hundred metres long, in amazing shapes (including that of an astronaut) which you can best admire flying in a small plane over the desert, around the local chunk of the Carretera Panamericana

Leave it all up to me

A summer of few years ago I was enchanted by the big Apple and left longing to come back. Back did I come, at last, hitting a couple of hot spring days - perhaps a tad too hot for a small apartment in the Upper East side.

And a different New York, where the city was not the main point. Although it was, of course.

Not many photos this time, and anyway I never got to work on those from a few years ago, shame on me.

This time, been busy collecting metro and laundromat cards as well as other things. 

For example soaking up the sun and the city esprit on a rock in Central Park, sharing a locally brewed Staten Island lager or a few pancake stacks on the 2nd.

Pretty good also succeeding in getting tickets for the Book of Mormon on Broadway - despite the tech challenges of the enterprise. Hitting a memorable Sichuan crispy cumin beef in the Upper East, and a not so memorable (albeit self proclaiming award winning) hummus in Hell's kitchen.

And finally finding the truth in the subway, in the words of Major Jackson, in a single kiss like a marathon with no finish line.