Sunday 13 May 2018

L'ombelico del (nuovo) mondo

Welcome to the archeological capital of the Americas, the city of gold, the navel of the new world, the capital of the Incan empire, spanning from Colombia to Argentina - before being conquered (invaded?) and raided by Pizarro and his Conquistadores.

Also the base to explore Inca lands and star attraction Macchu Picchu. But that will come later.

Welcoming and pleasant despite its 3400 metres, so rich in history, culture and sights that can be overwhelming.

With churches, basilicas, museums and even pretty good restaurants, it is going to keep us busy for some time.

While a majestic sun is shining onto the imposing Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral and the Church of the Jesuits are competing for attention. Not a novelty: the latter was built in an attempt to rival its neighbour in splendor - until the offended bishop complained to the Vatican and obtained to downsize the Jesuit plans to only one nave.

Both ended up as masterpieces of baroque, rococo and of mixing catholic art and local traditions: Virgin Mary with a dress in a shape of the sacred mountain, bare-chest ladies symbols of fertility adorning the bishop's benches, and our favourite: the last supper featuring roasted Guinea pig on the menu.


The Qurikancha or Convent of Santo Domingo is another must see. Originally the Inca most important temple, the House of the Sun, decorated with gold, silver, thrones and precious stones, it later became a Dominican Convent, built upon and around the Inca structure.

The Incas knew how to make anti-seismic buildings which are in a good part still standing, with trapeze stones, twelve angled stones and lego-style of construction. The colonial structure fared much less well and was much more damaged by the earthquakes. Which led to the local distinction between Inca and Incapaces.







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