Plotting

Back from Loire, time to plot all the stops on a map. From Blois to Angers, via Tours and Saumur, touching Chartres on the way back.

For a total of 12 Castles, 6 towns, 1 troglodyte farm, 1 Cathedral, 1500 km, 4 wine cellars, 15 bottles back home.

Top 3 Castles: Chambord, Chenonceau, Blois.
Outstanding breathtaking non-Castle: Chartres cathedral

Top 3 activities: spending the night in a water mill, eating fouées a la troglodyte, sundowner on the Loire (kayaking could have been an option too).

Top 3 people: big-nose King Francis I, our Lady of the Mill, le vigneron de la Giraudiere.
Special mention to the Lady of the Poires Tapées de Rivarenne, explaining her ethics of beating the pears.

Castles part III: Chenonceau

 The castle of women. The castle of luscious gardens. The castle of love, pleasure, lust and power. 

Women lived here who were loved by some king - or were otherwise married to them. Women who fought for the privilege of living here (as opposed to being confined to some other beautiful castle down the river, of course).


Women who ruled the country from a green cabinet or retreated to mourn a dead husband in peace in a dark room - in peace, sure, but surrounded by a court of kind gentlemen.

It has been a hot summer day and then a sweet summer night, of the kind all those women would have certainly known how to enjoy.

Leonardo

King Francis I did not look extremely handsome and had quite a big nose. But that is not so important.

Besides Chambord, he had another beautiful castle overlooking Amboise (among other places where he would move with his thousands servants and assemblable furniture) and a manor a few hundred metres away, when he invited Leonardo to join him.

The Genius accepted and came by - bringing Mona Lisa along and making a French lady of her forever.

Leonardo did not regret it as he even requested to be buried there. The Amboisiens certainly did not regret it either, as nowadays they seem to capitalise on Leonardo's last restplace more than birthplace Vinci.

I suspect that also a Genius enjoys living in a nice manor, surrounded by a big park, developing war machines and other toys.

Castles part II: Chambord and Cheverny

Once upon a time lived Francis I, a very determined young man. At age 25 he knew that he wanted Milan and that he wanted also a huge and beautiful castle with an extended forest around so that he could go hunting. There was a perfect spot in Chambord.

The guy got what he wanted, the castle is magnificent. But Francis I loved travelling (and wars) more than he loved staying in the beautiful castle. Therefore he got himself a few thousands servants and a few sets of dismountable furniture (Ikea bed, chests and wardrobes of the time). And so, he could keep going around carrying everything along and randomly stopping at the immense castle when he felt like it. 

In fact he moved also within he castle. Today did he not feel comfortable in one wing? Just dismount the bed and move everything to the other side. 

I would not find it unlikely that he finally quit the place because of getting tired of looking for the bathroom among more than 400 rooms.

Several centuries later, Hergé and Tintin would find it much easier getting around in neighbouring Cheverny, masterpiece of classical symmetry and harmonic beauty.

Castles part I: Blois

The Loire at last, shining at sunset.

In the city of Renaissance intrigues and bloodshed, stands a majestic castle, which is in fact 4 different castles in one. Cannot stop staring at this marble staircase.

The summer night is warm and calm in the court of the Castle. Even better after the (slightly overdone) "son et lumiere" show is over. 

The sky is dark and clear. The stars (and the satellites and the international space station) quietly look down on us. Cheesy yeah, but it is St.Lawrence, so I'm expecting some falling stars anytime. In fact I think I have seen one - although it may have been just a bat hit by the spotlight, who knows.

And then spending the night in a former watermill in the middle of the fields.